A few months back I draped a truly fascinating Deep Winter. She didn’t look at all like your stereotypical Winter, with her light brown hair and hazel eyes. When I started to drape her I felt a small sense of panic when the metallic drapes didn’t tell me anything. I really struggled to tell whether the gold or silver worked best; the more muted metallic drapes didn’t help me either. Afterwards, of course, this made sense – in the Sci/Art colour analysis system a Deep/Dark Winter is a neutral season and they can wear both silver and gold. Metallic drapes are not as useful when you’re dealing with a neutral season.
Her hair looked quite soft in colour, in fact she appeared to have the same colour hair as her Autumn friend (whose draping I’d witnessed years ago). Their eyes appeared to be very similar too; brown and khaki. I’d have described them as a pretty green-y brown, and the typical eyes of an Autumn.
I started with the Summer and Autumn drapes, the two more muted seasons. Something about the deeper Summer drapes was working (turned out it was the coolness). Something about some of the Autumn drapes was working (turned out to be the depth) and of course there are Autumn / Winter “crossover” colours (colours that are very similar in both seasons). It was all very disorientating at first.
It was only when I stared to compare the Autumn and Winter drapes that things started to make more sense. The deeper (as opposed to brighter) Winter drapes were superb. Pine green, aubergine, deep fuchsia, charcoal, navy and burgundy were perfection. Interestingly she’d arrived wearing one of Winter’s palest neutrals, a silvery grey, and a navy scarf with a deep fuchsia pattern.
After establishing she was indeed a Winter I tried the metallic drapes again and I could see that the bright silver drape was indeed the best of the four although it was in no way obvious and I think that at the start I couldn’t get my head round Winter as a possibility so I couldn’t see the subtle difference. This is why I try hard not to guess a season before we start; it can really get in the way of seeing what’s really there. It’d seen my client’s eye colour in other Winters before but not her soft hair colour – that threw me. Any season really can have any hair colour.
Remarkable, isn’t it? Of course, looking at her hair again now I can see she’s much ashier than her Autumn and Spring friends, there’s a greyness there that’s typical of cool season hair. It’s interesting how the Spring hair appears to have a red / ginger-ness in it that I hadn’t spotted in real life. The colour of the Autumn’s hair reminds me of a bronze statue.
Before I sent my client home I did a quick mental recap for my own sanity, just to reassure myself that she was indeed a Winter who suited the deepest colours of that palette. Summer drapes: greyness / softness underwhelming. Autumn: warmth made her look slightly sick (I’ve seen True Winters look worse though). Spring: brightness and warmth utterly jarring. Made my jaw feel tense just looking at her. Winter: the very brightest drapes were too bright. Deepest Winter drapes were perfection. Neutrals – useful. Black / white were good. True red / blue / emerald good but the deeps were amazing. In the Colour Me Beautiful system she might be a ‘Deep & Cool’.
Winter lipsticks looked great on her (especially the deep fuschia) which is always the ultimate test. Winter lipsticks are so uncompromising in that they look comically bad on the wrong season. My client mentioned she finds it very difficult to buy foundation and this didn’t surprise me; I think anyone who is really cool struggles with foundation. Winter foundation can look grey in the bottle, bizarrely. The cosmetics world seems to struggle with people who have really cool undertones.
The draping provided such a valuable lesson for me regarding hair colour; I’d always known that any season could have any hair / eye colour combination and it was thrilling to see that played out in real life!